by: Alex T. Bielak,
Post-COVID, we longed to travel again, but were unsure exactly what we wanted. “Butlers on a beach,” or something else aligning with our interests? Having come across Northstar’s Anita Michalczewski on the Nextdoor app, we asked her to come up with some upscale options.
After considerable to and fro, Anita called saying she had come across a great deal for us to consider, a “Cultural Expedition” with ATLAS Ocean Voyages.
Cruising was not really in our travel vernacular. We balked at the profusion of operators, all seemingly claiming to be the best. We shuddered at the thought of floating cities disgorging locust-like swarms of passengers into ports. Gushing PR-driven reviews shed little light on what we really might expect.
This seemed different, however: ATLAS, a relatively new operator, has a small fleet of “yachts” each carrying up to 200 passengers, and able to navigate where the big boys can’t. The price included gratuities, most drinks, 24-hour room service, some internet access, at least one excursion and other perks. Suggested dress was smart-casual,so no need to pack a tux and ballgowns.
With Polar Class vessels designed for expeditions to Antarctica and the Arctic, ATLAS also operates in the Caribbean and Mediterranean, and points between as they seasonally change hemispheres.
The price was less than any of the hotel options we had considered, and feedback via the ATLAS Ocean Voyages Cruisers Facebook page was positive, so we jumped aboard for a cruise through the
Windward Islands, including off-the-beaten-path spots like Monserrat, Bequia, and teeny-tiny Mopian Island.
The first experience was good bang for the buck, and – again with Anita’s assistance - in the early fall we signed on last-minute for what was billed as an “Epicurean Expedition” from Nice to Palma di Majorca. An added attraction was that we could visit family and friends at both the beginning and end of the trip.
Anita researched and booked options related to our travel: she also arranged a $400 onboard credit because of Northstar’s affiliation with the “Travel Leaders Network Distinctive Voyages” program. (We spent that sum on a massage in the onboard spa, an excursion for two in Menorca, and laundry.)
Anita dealt doggedly with ATLAS to ensure all our paperwork was in order. In stark contrast to our positive experiences aboard, and as corroborated by others, the ATLAS head office has a long way to go to catch up with competitors in terms of customer service, not to mention the user - friendliness of their online resources.
The “Welcome Home” banner, affixed to the ship’s gangplank, was a friendly touch: It struck a genuine chord when we embarked our second cruise in Nice.
The Ship: Proudly flying the flag of Portugal, ATLAS’s three sister ships are small, sleek and beautiful. All are less than five years old, their deck layouts essentially identical and easy to navigate once aboard. Peculiarly, two more vessels had been commissioned for deliver in 2025/2026, but were sold to Windstar, where they will enter service over the next couple of years.
The stark contrast in size between the World Traveller, when docked beside MSC’s Seaview, highlighted not just the size disparity between the two vessels, but also between the intimate experience we sought, and what we perceived – perhaps wrongly as we have not experienced it - as a floating resort.
At 9,930 gross tons (GT), Traveller is 423 feet long, has eight decks and carries just shy of 200 guests in 98 cabins. She has about 120 crew members. The 154,000 GT MSC Seaview measures 1,060 ft, has 18 decks, and accommodates 5,119 passengers in 2,066 cabins. Her crew numbers 1,413.
The Traveller runs near-silently when cruising at the low speeds needed to move overnight between Mediterranean ports that are, sometimes, only an hour or so apart by road. Advanced positioning systems also make tendering ashore easier and safer where circumstances dictate.
With such a restrained number of guests aboard, one is all but guaranteed to be able to find quiet, intimate spots to contemplate life. For instance, the ATLAS Lounge and the Dome Observatory were quiet or completely empty outside of scheduled activities. There are also multiple deck areas where to relax or stroll.
Our Cabin: After embarkation, in no time we were issued our keycards: these functioned as both door keys to our cabin and for security checks when leaving or returning to the ship. We felt very secure on board.
We declined the offer for a staffer to take us to our cabin as the Traveller’s layout is identical to the Voyager we had been on six months prior. Our baggage was already in our 6th deck Veranda "Stateroom". Along with welcome literature, we found two high quality backpacks and water bottles for our use aboard, and to keep. We also received a copy of the “Daily Traveller” bulletin. This appeared every evening and neatly encapsulated the following day’s activities.
Including a two-seat private balcony, the compact cabin was well and tastefully designed and appointed. The bathroom is intelligently laid out, and hot water plentiful with multiple showerhead options. Note, however, the difference between a scalding and freezing shower is a matter of millimeters and the definition of an “extra-large” bathrobe bears re-examination.
Providing one is assiduous in using the storage, the 270 sq. ft feels cozy and luxe. The Portuguese cotton linens – how I wish they were available for purchase – were a standout. A large TV offered a peculiarly eclectic selection of films and TV channels and could also be used to watch lectures and presentations taking place in the ship’s auditorium.
Most any amenities we needed were either in place or could quickly be provided by our steward. A good thing, as anything we had tried to arrange via ATLAS Corporate had failed to materialise.
Others Aboard and Gratuities: Neither of our voyages saw the ship at full capacity. The majority of passengers were American, with a smattering of Brits, Canucks and Auzzies making up most of the balance. There were also more singles aboard than I had imagined, and more family groups.
By and large the guests were mature, friendly, and outgoing, though it is easy to imagine a single obnoxious guest, or a boisterous group might disturb the harmonious environment. The few youth aboard were very well behaved. On our second trip there was a hallway “Meet your neighbours” event which was fun and effective in breaking the ice, appies and beverages being provided by the crew.
Officers, department heads and special guests were introduced to the passengers by the Captain on our first nights aboard. The crew on both voyages hailed from many nationalities. The two cruise directors had worked for years in the industry: engaging hoofers, they MC’d the events and, later in the cruise, would belt out a tune at the drop of a hat.
The crew are the heart and soul of ATLAS working tirelessly to cater to passengers’ needs. Their smiles genuine, many had learned one’s name and coffee or drink preferences within 24 hours. Of note was a questionnaire sent out after our first days aboard: this was taken seriously, and suggestions acted upon to adjust service or address issues.
We were particularly struck by the attention to safety shown by the crew responsible for tendering. Such competence is honed during the polar expeditions: no matter the age or limitations of the passengers, they expeditiously got everyone onto or off the tenders, even in fairly significant swells.
Though gratuities are included in the price of an ATLAS cruise, there appears to be an underlying assumption that a modest additional tip be made to particularly-helpful staff. I understand tipping for spa services is expected on all cruise lines, as thse gratuities are not part of the included crew gratuity.
Given the size of ATLAS’s ships, don’t expect the Vegas style productions, casinos, water slides, ice rinks and even go cart tracks offered by others. Each of our trips featured a singer, one of whom was truly world class, though under-utilised in our view.
A piano player appeared daily. There was a well-attended and highly competitive trivia competition, and a charmingly amateur crew talent show raised funds for the crew benevolent fund, allowing passengers to bid on various paraphernalia. On our first cruise, an unintentionally hilarious guest lecturer addressed some esoteric topics: on our second, a junior officer spoke about navigation.
As for excursions, it is certainly advisable to consider how one will spend time ashore before boarding, making any necessary bookings with ATLAS in advance. But that is not necessarily how things work, especially if one really must search hard to find reliably informative details about the excursions in advance.
The responsible and helpful staff conduct briefings on trips still available a day or two prior to arrival at a given port. On both our cruises the excursions were not hugely enticing. On the Caribbean cruise, there were only so many fabulous views and beautiful beaches, punctuated with bad rum punch and reggae, a person could reasonably experience before oversaturation kicked in.
The excursions in the Mediterranean clearly offer much greater variety. But, pertinent local knowledge by ATLAS staff seemed lacking, resulting in excursions offered on days when attractions were closed or otherwise unavailable.
For instance, in Marseilles, we were told that if we did not want to sign up for a broader-in-scope excursion, we could walk to the imposing Notre-Dame de la Garde Cathedral in 45 minutes. That would have been a stretch even had we been ready to brave heavy traffic plying the narrow, ever
steepening streets. However, local tourism officials quickly suggested a public bus ride at a couple of Euros was the way to go.
Later, in Menorca, we visited Mount Toro, where the views were stunning. However, the associated medieval sanctuary and convent were off limits for the time we were there because a mass was being held. Minor alterations to the schedule would have avoided disappointment.
One can speculate as to the reasons for such disconnects: perhaps it is related to the infrequency of visits by ATLAS to some ports compared to other lines, or their lack of clout with tour operators when compared to companies with a far higher passenger count.
My previous life as a newspaper restaurant critic is a double-edged sword. I’m naturally attracted to culinary travel, but apt to cast a critical eye on offerings.
By definition, the term “epicure” refers to more exalted status than a mere gourmand or even foodie, but not as advanced as those of a gourmet, let alone a gastronome who sit near the twin pinnacles of knowledge and professionalism in matters of taste.
Did our ATLAS cruise in the Med in September live up to the epicurean standard? Not quite.
Let’s begin with the good. The voyage was graced by two accomplished but diametrically different guest chefs, Christy Rost and Viet Pham. For Canadian context as to the calibre of these individuals, Toronto’s Chef Massimo Capra had just left the ship after playing the same role.
Both did demos for guests and cooked live in the dining room at dinner. Rost channeled her mentors, Julia Child and Chef Yan of “Wok with Yan” fame. She is a seasoned presenter with several TV series under her belt and had her target audience down cold. Eight attendees won a draw for an onboard “Dinner with Christy” at the end of one of her demos, the only one featuring a local dish, Chicken Provençal.
Chef Viet, who has beaten Bobby Flay and his team three times now – Food Channel afficionados will know exactly what I’m talking about - was also aboard. He dispensed his culinary knowledge and engaged guests in friendly banter and gentle trash-talk. An impressive and personable presence, from whom I learned some useful techniques, he owns three “Pretty Bird” restaurants out west with his wife. I could write a great deal more about him and his approach to cuisine based on our conversations.
One afternoon ATLAS also brought aboard a first class somm, to lead a wine tasting. Patricia Hedge, a resident of the Côte d'Azur spoke about Provençal wines, delving into the producers she knows so well, and their approaches to viniculture.
There was also an included excursion in Barcelona, ending with a Paella dinner in a waterfront restaurant. The food was excellent, but the logistics of getting 120 guests marshalled were not well thought out. The quantities of great food that appeared before us were over the top and left many hoping leftovers had been distributed to those in need.
Opportunities to gain experience about regional dishes and specialties were missed or not offered. For example, during an episode of Rost’s program I found online, sponsored by ATLAS, the company rep hyped tours of local markets with chefs, and an expert lecturing about local cuisines but neither was offered, on our cruise at least.
Neither was a tour of the Traveller’s kitchen offered, though that experience was available on the Voyager’s Cultural Expedition in the spring. The fantastic Josper grill and smoker near the compact pool seemed mostly relegated to cooking burgers. A cooking contest for passengers, though fun, involved no sharp implements, heat source, bowls, or ingredients beyond what one might find in a mediocre salad bar. (We came second but are not bitter!)
Some of the excursions did feature gastronomic or viticultural elements, but a planned visit to a Menorcan gin distillery found us at a local shop rather than the facility which was closed that day. The associated tour of a dairy farm and sampling of award-winning cheeses was very interesting.
Why not integrate a “Regional cheese of the day” in the restaurant for guests to sample? To be fair, there was Iberico ham, but epicures would have liked to learn of, and taste, the multiple grades of such a delicacy. And what to make of the bowl of fried mealworms sitting alongside various nuts and dried fruits?
Ditto for wines. ATLAS serves some good product, much sourced in Portugal their home base. (Special vintages are available at extra cost.) Surely serving some of the local varietals would have been in order? Champagne was available by the glass, but other sparklers were substituted at the receptions.
I know some passengers were disappointed not to see more luxe items, like caviar, offered, though miniscule quantities were observable in some of the dishes. There was sometimes a “ Market Dish of the Day” that reflected the heritage of the regions we visited, but a systematic approach would have delivered better on the epicurean promise.
In terms of daily meals, the breakfast buffet was generally very good with a selection of excellent, freshly - baked breads. Snacks and specialty coffees and juices from “Paula’s Pantry.” were a treat and a particular destination for both early or later risers. Lunch was more then adequate hot/cold buffet. Dinner dishes including "always available" steaks salmon and pasta were a bit hit and miss. Nevertheless, the portioning and presentation were very good. Dishes were cooked à la minute and usually delivered piping hot. Restricted diets are easily accommodated.Desserts were generally uninspired, though we greedily consumed a rich celebratory cake one evening.
I suspect much comes down to the logistics of working from a corporately agreed, rotating 14-day menu constrained by per capita food cost targets and perhaps working with suppliesordered by another chef months prior. That's a tricky and finely balanced calculus, not unique to ATLAS, I imagine. To sum up, there is a strong base from which ATLAS could build a truly epicurean experience for which there
is clearly an appetite among ATLAS’s clientele. The small number of passengers aboard on any given voyage could allow for a cohesive, premier offering to be developed.
1. We like cruising and can recommend ATLAS. The potential for a third voyage has been discussed, the question being where and who with, rather than if.
2. Nothing is free: beware the hype pervading cruise advertising. Do your own research and seek out the experiences of others. ATLAS promotes “Second Passenger Free” on certain sailings. Well regarded Regent Cruises version of “all-inclusive luxury” offers free first-class flights, daily excursions and more, but the cost of a vacation with them can cost multiple times what we paid.
3. Potential cruisers need to find their own sweet spot: Antarctica and Athens might be too cold or hot. One half of a couple might love wandering through a port, the other preferring to stay aboard in air-conditioned comfort while doing a jigsaw puzzle.
4. ATLAS may not be perfect in terms of excursions or epicurean offerings, but they were more than good enough for us, particularly at the price point offered. The genuine warmth and competence of the multicultural crew was terrific, and we didn’t miss having Hollywood style productions or multiple dining options one bit.
5. I’ve heard from enough people that a ship carrying up to a thousand passengers can still afford the level of intimacy and service we experienced aboard ATLAS, while offering a bit more variety in terms of restaurants and amenities. I’m open to such
possibilities, especially if they take me to areas ATLAS does not currently explore, particularly Japan and S.E. Asia.
6. A day in a port like Barcelona is simply insufficient as there is so much to see and experience. If possible, choose a cruise that begins and/or ends at a destination that you want to explore in depth and spend a few days doing so.
7. While an individual travel agent cannot be expected to have universal, current knowledge of all destinations, having an experienced agent on your side is a sound investment, even if you like doing your own research. And remember, they have access to resources you don’t.
Disclaimer: the author paid for the trips described above. Neither ATLAS, nor Northstar Travel had any editorial input to the piece which is an honest reflection of our experience.
Alex Bielak is a well-reputed food, drink and travel writer and speaker. An enthusiastic cook, eclectic eater, and experienced traveller, his bylines have appeared in various Canadian and international media. The longest-serving restaurant reviewer for the Waterloo Region Record, he is currently focusing on longer-form writing, including a second book of family stories, one of which relates his adventures as a cruise ship crew member in the late seventies. Follow @AlexBielak on X and Instagram, and like
www.facebook.com/Food4ThoughtArchives)
